“Nowhere else is it possible to experience, in such a small area, so many different cultures and social conditions, such diverse vegetation, and such varied landscape as in the Caribbean.”
– Leonard Adkins
After spending one too many winters at home in the UK my boyfriend and I decided to save up some cash and ensure that December 2019 would be the year we go off and beat the blues by escaping to a Caribbean island. Shoutout to Ainsley Harriott for inspiring this trip with his ‘Caribbean Kitchen’ series! His trip across the Caribbean inspired us to have our own.
We toyed with where we wanted to go in the Caribbean and in the end St Lucia came up as an easy frontrunner. It had everything we wanted – palm fringed beaches, a tropical climate, lots of nature and the chance to explore a rainforest too! The island is idyllic for both those who are looking to embrace a laid-back lifestyle and relax, to those seeking adventure and take a walk on the wild side.
This blog post will take you through our experience visiting St Lucia for the first time and perhaps help nudge you towards making your next holiday booking to this dreamy paradise island in the West Indies…
NORTH VS. SOUTH
We spent quite a long time debating which part of the island would be the best option depending on what we wanted to see and do on our trip. We learnt that there are two sides to St Lucia and had to pick between visiting the north or the south side of the island.
In the north you will find the capital city of Castries. From our research it seemed to be the most popular destination for people to visit, particularly for American clientele and those coming to see the island via cruise ships.There are lots of beach resorts, bars and more of a nightlife scene on this part of St Lucia. The north is also popular for Rodney bay and other beautiful beaches. As well as this, the north side of the island gives visitors easy access to visiting Pigeon Island (a national landmark and former military base) and taking day trips via boat to Martinique.
The southern side of St Lucia is more typically known as a tranquil destination and is also known as being a little more pricey in comparison to the north. The south is home to the iconic Pitons, a lush rainforest, quiet bays and other scenic nature spots. This side of the island was always described as being more slow-paced overall, with the exception of offering plenty of adventure activities.
A note: a cross-island trip is possible but please just note that it will take a full day when you factor in the transportation.
WHERE WE STAYED
Once we had decided that the majority of the things we wanted to explore were located in the southern part of St Lucia, we began searching for a place to base ourselves. We stumbled across Coconut Bay Beach Resort and Spa and the rest was history!
We really gravitated towards the great reviews we read and how much they had to offer in terms of not only allowing us to relax but also coupling that with adventure. The great thing about staying here means that you aren’t limited when it comes to exploring the island (something which was paramount for us!). The hotel has so many great connections with excursions, trips and sightseeing spots that it was very easy for us to get out and about.
For my full review of this hotel please click here – I have written an in-depth blog post about our experience at Coconut Bay!
Did you know St Lucia is just 44km long and 22km wide?
SOUFRIÈRE FISHING VILLAGE
On the island’s west coast lies the incredibly picturesque fishing port village of Soufrière. We had the pleasure of driving through Soufrière a handful of times so it became a familiar sight throughout the course of our stay in St Lucia.
It’s beautiful, colourful, peaceful and friendly, so be sure to stop off here and explore!
SOUFRIÈRE SULPHUR SPRINGS
The sulphur springs are a must-see if you’re staying on the south side of the island. You are most likely going to smell the sulphur springs before you see them too!
The springs lie in the heart of Soufrière which is actually how the town got its name, as ‘soufre’ is French for sulphur. The springs lie in a crater and showcase the geothermal remnants of St Lucia’s volcano. The springs are made up of impressive bubbling mud pools, dramatic hypothermal rock formations and fumaroles (or steam vents). The scenery is not dissimilar to images of the surface of the moon!
Upon arrival here you will be allocated a guide to show you around and tell you everything you need to know about the springs from the safety of viewing platforms (you’ll find out why from the guide after an incident in the 60s – I won’t ruin the story for you!).
Did you know that St Lucia is the only place in the world where you can drive through a volcano? The volcano is considered to be ‘semi-active’ but there have been no notable eruptions for hundreds of years.
MUD BATHS
Not too far away from the drive-in volcano you will find the mud baths, which are one of the most popular and unique attractions of St Lucia for sure!
The mud baths are a byproduct of the sulphur springs which are apparently the result of a nearby river. The grey colour of the mud baths is caused by the high concentrations of iron, sulphur, copper and lots of other natural minerals. The mud is said to ease joining pain, help soften and help keep you looking youthful.
Visitors are encouraged to get stuck in and luxuriate in the hot mud bath pools which come in three ‘stages’, which range from being ‘hot like the depths of hell’ to ‘very hot but tolerable’.
Once you’ve taken a dip you can then go on to decorate your body in thicker mineral-rich mud from buckets around the mud pools. It’s a fun, messy and smelly experience!
Top Tip: Be sure to pay the local coconut seller a visit on your way out. He sells fresh coconuts out of the back of a truck – drink the water first and then enjoy the fleshy part afterwards. Delicious!
THE BOTANICAL GARDENS & DIAMOND WATERFALL
Another of St Lucia’s natural wonders is Diamond Falls Botanical Gardens. The Botanical Gardens reside in the original site of spring baths built in the 1700s and you can still see them here today (the water is said to have ‘therapeutic powers’)!
The site used to be a working plantation but has since been transformed into a magical nature retreat with spectacularly fertile vegetation and an array of plant life that I haven’t seen anywhere else in the world.
It’s impossible to put into words how insanely beautiful, lush and colourful these gardens truly are. You’ll simply have to visit! Every inch of the grounds is brimming with plants, flowers, insects and birds – we even saw a hummingbird here!
The botanical gardens are also home to the ‘Diamond Waterfall’ which is roughly 17m high and contains some of the volcanic minerals present in the Sulphur Springs. This is without question an unmissable place to visit on the island.
MOULE A CHIQUE PENINSULA
The Moule a Chique peninsula is situated a short drive away from Vieux Fort on the southernmost tip of St Lucia. The hill is said to have been created as a result of lava flow as an extension of the island.
The views from the top of the hill are spectacular and it’s also possible to see the Atlantic ocean on one side and the Carribean sea on the other – an incredible sight!
We ventured here by car, although apparently it is possible to walk all the way up – it’s a very steep ascent on a bumpy road however.
RAINFOREST ZIP LINING
One of the most exhilarating experiences we had in St Lucia is zip-lining for the first time in a dense green and extremely humid rainforest. We took a tour along the east coast of the island, through banana plantations and then were dropped off in the rainforest where you could go mountain biking or zip-lining.
The Treetop Adventure Park is located near the town of Dennery and offers visitors the opportunity to enjoy an incredible birds eye view of the tropical forests surrounding you by ziplining through various platforms. The adventure park team were incredibly fun and adventurous and kitted us out in safety gear and harnesses before we started ziplining. We didn’t see any scary bugs or snakes but the team did inform us that they often have to deal with boa constrictors on the zip-lines in the mornings!
This excursion was a pretty solid workout, with lots of walking and the humidity made everyone very hot and our clothes wet. I am so glad I brought my GoPro for this trip as it meant we could capture the incredible sights we saw while moving through the rainforest. It was definitely one of these experiences you won’t forget in a hurry!
WHALE & DOLPHIN WATCHING CATAMARAN
If there is ever a boat trip on offer wherever I find myself in the world, you best believe I will be on it! Our catamaran left off from Soufrière harbour and we did a couple of passenger pick-ups along the southwest coast before going further out to sea.
The sea was perfectly still and it was such a relaxing experience, sunbathing and keeping an eye out for the Pitons, taking in the view of landscape from the water and, ofcourse, watching the sea for any sightings of whales or dolphins.
Our guides informed us that sightings are never guaranteed, however we did get to see pygmy sperm whales who were very shy but we could see them exploring the surface of the water off the west coast of the island. They are notoriously very shy creatures so it was incredible to see them in the flesh.
Whether you spot a whale or dolphin or not I don’t think that detracts from the fact that the activity is still going to be really fun and a chilled out way to spend the day.
Sunscreen is NOT optional for this tour! On the water you’re pretty much as exposed as you can be to the sun and it gets very hot – just something to keep in mind.
DENNERY
If you get the chance I would really recommend taking a drive from Vieux Fort along the east coast towards the quaint fishing village of Dennery for a different perspective on the landscape. I wouldn’t hesitate to stop at Mandele Lookout Point for some of the most scenic views of the fishing village, Dennery Island and epicly turquoise waters.
We drove past banana plantations and learnt that St Lucian bananas make their way to the UK and are sold at Waitrose!
Did you know? The George Odlum Stadium which was built to house Olympic sporting events is currently being used as a hospital until a new building is constructed.
THE PITONS
There is no landmark quite as iconic and instantly recognisable to a place than the Pitons are to St Lucia!
The Pitons rise dramatically from the lush green landscape of the island and are a pair of mountainous volcanic plugs (a structure created when molten rock hardens within a lava dome that is eroded over time and leaves the inner core) situated near to the town of Soufrière. They are believed to have been established over 200,000 years ago as a result of intense volcanic activity.
The Gros Piton is 798m high and the Petit Piton is 743m and they both make for impressive sights to behold both from surrounding land and from the sea. Both can be climbed, with treks up Gros Piton being the most popular option as Petit Piton is considered to be a far tougher hike for experienced climbers only.
Did you know that the Pitons are a UNESCO World Heritage Site? They are 1 of 19 World Heritage sites in the Caribbean.
FOOD & DRINK
Beer
With the Pitons (volcanic spires) being such a symbolic part of the St Lucia travel experience, we were surprised to learn that the locals actually prefer to drink Heineken beer over their very own Piton beer! The Heineken brewery is actually located on the south of the island which meant we were able to see it when on our boat tour.
Plantain
Plantain is a staple food of the Caribbean and I definitely became a bit obsessed with all things plantain in St Lucia. In fried form, dried into chips or baked, plantain is up there alongside potatoes when it comes to being a versatile and un-fussy food that works well eaten on its own or alongside other delicacies.
Green Figs & Salt Fish
I saw green figs and salt fish on the menu for breakfast and, while Brits might be accustomed to eating fish for breakfast, I decided to try it out! When in St Lucia eh?
‘Green figs’ are actually a term referred to unripe bananas and the dish makes use of them, with bananas being the island’s greatest export. The fish element of the dish comes in after the figs are boiled in salt water and then flaked cod is added (alongside spices, peppers and onions). If you enjoy fish then you will love this dish! The saltiness of the sauce compliments the figs and the texture of the soft fish with the figs creates a stew like consistency.
Roti
After discovering that rotis were just as much a feature of St Lucian cuisine as they were in Trinidad and Tobago, I found a way to locate some while out and about in our local town of Vieux Fort.
A roti is a type of bread wrap that can be filled with curried chicken or goat with potatoes. It’s insanely fragrant, filling and delicious! We bought ours from a local cafe in Vieux Fort and this version we were warned contained chicken with bones which meant the eating experience got a little messy with us trying to pick the bones out. Trust me, the mess was worth it!
I wouldn’t hesitate to recommend visitors to St Lucia to sample as many local dishes and delicacies as possible! There is something truly irresistible about St Lucia’s eclectic mixture of Indian, European & Carribean influenced cuisine.
‘Tats Cakes’ Cake Shop
We had the pleasure of chatting to and getting to know Brendan, one of our drivers, fairly well as we spent a day with him showing us around the island and learning a little bit more about island life and his life too. He told us that his wife had her own cake making business that she runs from their home and showed us some of her work – seriously her cakes are impressive! I thought I would attach a link to her business page here so that whoever reads this blog can check out her work!
WILDLIFE
Due to the diverse ecology of the island I was excited to learn more about the types of wildlife that inhabited St Lucia – and honestly a little bit scared to encounter any big creepy crawlies. Thankfully, we had encounters with birds and creatures that were much less scary…
Lesser Antillean Whistling Frog
The very first night we spent in St Lucia we heard what can only be described as a bird-like screechy-singing outside of our room, almost like a team of very angry birds were arguing. And the sound was continuous, starting from the point of it going dark at sunset all the way through the night. We were curious and after a quick Google search, we learnt that the cacophony was caused by the tiniest little frogs (literally these guys are the size of a pea).
I had to go and investigate them for myself and managed to track one down (check out the little guy in the photo)! It seems these little fellas are not quite as cute and appealing to people who live on the island or those who are looking to get a good night’s sleep as I think they are, but I do think they are one of the most memorable creatures we saw in St Lucia!
Hummingbirds
Needless to say that when I learnt that St Lucia had several species of hummingbird (one of my absolute favourite types of bird), I was ecstatic! However I was also very much aware that they are very elusive and difficult to spot, which is why I set my expectations of actually seeing one myself very low to avoid disappointment.
By some miracle – and the power of my beady eyes – we actually had a handful of encounters seeing hummingbirds! The first hummingbird we saw was the Green Throated Carib in the Botanical Gardens. Even our tour guide was in shock as he had said to us earlier how unusual it would be to see one.
I then also saw the adorable Male Antillean Crested hummingbird while floating along the lazy river at our hotel. And from then on spotted a fair few others around the grounds of the hotel, fluttering delicately around the flowers scattered around the lawns.
Lizards
There are lots of lizards everywhere! They are small, very timid but lots of fun to watch sunbathing on rocks and amongst the foliage.
Beware…
I’m not particularly afraid of snakes, but I think it’s worth noting that when we went into the rainforest for our zip-lining excursion we spoke to the team who shared their experience seeing boa constrictors and (the highly venomous) fer-de-lance viper on occasion! No biggie!
BOUCAN BY HOTEL CHOCOLAT
We couldn’t go all the way to St Lucia and then not pay the famous Boucan restaurant a visit, now could we? If you didn’t see the Hotel Chocolat documentary about where the British Chocolatier’s cocoa is grown, I’m sure you’ve already guessed where their cocoa plantation is based – in St Lucia on the lush 140 acre Rabot Estate.
Staying in View Fort meant that Boucan was just 35 minutes away by car. We simply couldn’t resist the temptation and booked in to have our anniversary meal at Boucan as an indulgent treat.
Read all about our experience here.
WHEN TO GO
A tropical climate means that St Lucia is beautifully hot and toasty all year round, with temperatures averaging between 25 degrees and 31 degrees. However it does mean that the island has a dry season and a wet season.
December to May are known as being the driest months, whereas between June and November are wettest, with more showers and thunderstorms. We visited in early December and had clear blue skies everyday, with the exception of two heavy but fleeting rainstorms.
The best thing about a rainstorm here is that it comes and goes in a matter of minutes, cools everything down and then you can go about the rest of your day as if nothing ever happened!
CURRENCY
The official currency of St Lucia is the Eastern Caribbean Dollar, however we read online that the US Dollar was also an accepted currency. We found mixed answers as to which currency we should be bringing, as many travellers leaving tips on blogs/TripAdvisor were American and staying near the capital, Castries and seemed to be quite dated.
We opted to bring Eastern Caribbean Dollars and found that while it is the official currency, US Dollars are also very widely accepted. Regardless of what currency you bring, everyone does a rough currency value exchange whether you’re buying small value souvenirs in a local store or paying for something more pricey like an excursion, for example. You won’t lose out either way. We did find that as the majority of the tourists there were American and that we saw most people pay with US Dollars.
We mainly used cash on our trip overall, while our hotel did take cards at reception.
GETTING AROUND
There’s no skirting around it – St Lucia is not the easiest place to get around when it comes to public transport. You should be able to organise transportation with your hotel, car rental is also an option (just beware of the hills!) or speak to the locals to find out more about bus services and how often they operate etc depending on where you are staying on the island.
Airports
St Lucia has two airports on opposite ends of the island. In the north you’ll find the smaller George F. L. Charles Airport and in the south the larger Hewanorra International Airport.
MY TOP TIPS
- St Lucia’s volcanic landscape means that the landscape and roads are built on ground that steeply inclines and then declines. I would highly recommend bringing travel sickness tablets with you if you’re like me and suffer from motion sickness. It’s just better to be safe than sorry as on one of our group tours we saw a number of people feel unwell while we naviated the winding roads.
- As I mentioned earlier, the Whistling Frogs are pretty much everywhere and can be quite disruptive to your sleep if you’re a light sleeper. I’d pack some earplugs just to be on the safe side!
- If you opt to visit the mud baths (DO IT!), be sure to either bring a black swimwear with you or old swimwear that you wouldn’t mind having to throw away. The mud is messy and really hard to wash out. Just something to keep in mind!
- I would recommend bringing plenty of smaller notes with you no matter what currency you take as we ended up tipping a fair number of times. Tipping is not necessary ofcourse, but we experienced some particularly great service in St Lucia so wanted to give certain people a tip as an added ‘thank you’.
- Bring your workout gear with you on a trip to St Lucia as you never know when you will take the opportunity to try out a fun new activity such as zip-lining, hiking or other activities that might require some clothes you can ‘move’ in.
UNTIL NEXT TIME…
There’s something about the laid-back vibe and charm of the Caribbean that keeps drawing me back. St Lucia is the third Caribbean island I have been to (after Barbados and St Martin) and while I see some similarities (like the beautiful weather and wonderful food, for example), it has been a wildly different experience to the rest. I think that the fact that there is so much to explore here, be that the island’s incredible landscape and nature or sports and thrill-seeking activities, you are exposed to so many new experiences.
While we did some initial research to learn about what the island had to offer, we didn’t make any concrete plans with regards to what we would end up doing. The great thing about this is that we ended up seeing and exploring so much more than we initially set out to do. The moral of the story is to always say ‘yes’ to trying new things and get outside your comfort zone a little – you will only be rewarded!
I’ll end by saying that my favourite thing about St Lucia is all the fun-loving, positive and incredibly proud locals we spoke to throughout our stay. I asked people how they liked living here and what their favourite thing about St Lucia was and a word that kept coming back up was ‘paradise’.
I can confirm that St Lucia is indeed my idea of paradise.
Lica xoxo
