Visiting Marrakech on a whim was just what the doctor ordered to break up a long and gloomy January here in the UK.
Despite it being ‘low season’ for tourism and with the weather on the cooler side compared to the rest of the year, I think it was the perfect time to visit Morocco. Our flights and accommodation were super affordable, and overall, the experience we had exploring the souks was presumably more of a chilled out one, tourist number wise.
When we got home and people asked me what Marrakech was like, I found it almost impossible to articulate. I really wanted to take some time after our trip to gather my thoughts and paint a picture of what life was like day-to-day in the city, to really try and capture its essence…
Impressions Of Marrakech
You quickly learn to keep to the right when stepping out from your hotel into the rabbit warren-like maze of streets and souks.
Exploring the narrow cobbled pathways, you can hear the obnoxious roar of motorbikes gradually getting louder behind you, as eager drivers prepare to overtake you, clearing you by just a few millimetres.
Then, alongside the donkey-pulled wooden carts, groups of fellow travellers amble around you spellbound, entranced by all the Aladdin’s cave of wonders in the souk stalls. All that and the (many!) cats become yet more obstacles to navigate around! Waves of smells of diesel fumes, fire, food, metals and other materials hover.
There is a constant hum and background noise radiating from various craftsmen working on their latest project. Tucked into shaded alcoves and hidden beneath curved archways there is always someone working on something. People are painting, staining, sawing, welding, polishing and sewing. There are specialised souks depending on what you are seeking – Souk Haddadine for metalwork and trinkets, Souk Cherratine for leather, Souk Des Teinturiers for dyed wool.
You are immediately and involuntarily entranced by the organised chaos surrounding you. The sheer number of things presented before you at each stall in the souks is mesmerising. The vivid colours of textiles, pigments, spices, slippers, plates and bowls is overwhelming. There are piles and layers of everything, everywhere – variations of the same items stacked up from the floor and hanging from the ceiling. What is an initially overwhelming experience soon becomes more familiar and you do gradually become desensitised to the novelty of it all.
Out in the midday sun, it is blisteringly hot, but thankfully you are able to seek some shelter from the shadows cast by the wooden parasol-like canopies strategically placed above the souks’ most trodden pathways. Beads of light permeate the geometric designs cut into the canopy slats, creating the perfect temperature and shadowy ambience to leisurely go about navigating the labyrinthine pathway network.
The real question is, how badly do you want that scarf or piece of jewellery? Once you’ve browsed all the wares on offer, it’s time to set about negotiating a ‘good price’. Practice makes perfect here, and you’ll find that the more you partake in haggling, the better you become at correctly valuing your souk souvenir treasures.
Successfully shopped and in need of some respite from the desert heat? The next order of business is to secure a dreamy balcony table at a rooftop terrace cafe. There is no better way to rest your feet and get your energy back than watching the world go by, mocktail in hand and with a generous plate of cous-cous on the way.
At the end of the day, you retreat back to the comfort of your riad rooftop, watching the sun go down over the city as the smoke from wood fires stirs the atmosphere and the call to prayer echoes peacefully around you.
Marrakesh will always leave you in a state of awe.
The Red City
Being dropped off on the outskirts of Marrakesh’s ancient Medina is like being dropped into a movie set. We arrived late in the day – the sun set hours ago and it was dark – and there was a haze of smoke laying thick and heavy in the air.
We were enveloped by alleyways almost immediately. We turned corner after corner, meandering around maze-like streets, searching for our riad. You can immediately see why Marrakech is referred to as ‘the red city’ as even in dim lighting you could see the reddish ochre glow of the buildings.
Evidence of the damage caused by the 2023 earthquake is still visible, with entire chunks of buildings clearly destroyed and then cleared, creating empty crater-like hollows in between the still-standing homes.
Moroccan Architecture
The buildings are incredibly ornate in Marrakesh, and feature something called a Hispano-Moorish style. This blend of Moroccan (Moors) design, coupled with that of the Spanish when they invaded the country in the 8th century, has combined to result in a style of architecture that is incredibly unique and utterly beautiful.
And the doors! I am obsessed with compiling photographs of different styles of doors from across the world on my travels as it is, but Marrakesh did not disappoint on the door front. From geometric patterns, complex engravings, pretty tile details and the most elegant door knockers I have ever seen, it is safe to say that I was in heaven!
What Is A Riad?
If you are booking a stay in Morocco, you are more than likely going to end up staying in a riad. A riad is a traditional Moroccan house and comes with an indoor garden or courtyard, and is named after the Arab word ‘ryad’ which translates to mean ‘garden’.
Interestingly, the windows of the rooms contained within a riad, typically have windows that face inwards into a central courtyard. This style of building design is in keeping with the Islamic concept of privacy. These courtyards can feature water features, swimming pools or simply as decorated seating areas.
Where We Stayed
Riad Bianca is located in Northern Medina, which is one of the quieter areas of the original fortified citadel. Here you will mostly find residential areas, workshops and local markets. Tourists are a minority here compared to other areas of Medina.
It’s a low-key and tranquil place to stay, better suited perhaps to more seasoned and/or adventurous travellers. Being a 10 minute walk away from Jamaâ El Fna Square, it does mean you need to do some navigating through narrow cobblestone alleyways, but is totally worth it for a more ‘authentic’ travel experience.
Riad Bianca falls into the ‘homestay’ accommodation category. The host, Warda, lives on site, and takes care of the day to day running of the Riad alongside a small team of women. She is an incredibly charming and friendly host who treats guests enthusiastically as friends rather than merely visitors.
Oh, and the view from the rooftop is also pretty spectacular…
The Atlas Mountains
Our visit to Marrakech would not be complete without exploring a little further afield by taking the day to explore some of the Berber villages up in the Atlas Mountains.
Everyone we crossed paths with here, including our guide who was born and currently still lives in the mountains, was extremely hospitable and friendly.
We hiked through farmland, apple and walnut orchards and learnt a little bit more about what life is like for this thriving indigenous community.
I have always had a fascination with the Berber people since learning more about their history and way of life in Tunisia, which was why seeing how Berber life in Morocco compared was so important.
Our day spent exploring the Atlas Mountains was one of the trip highlights and is something I know Adam and I would both like to do more of in future visits… watch this space!
Reflecting On Marrakech
Visiting Marrakech was an excellent taster on what to expect from the rest of the country. While this was not my first time in a North African country (as mentioned, I have been to Tunisia too), it was eye-opening as the culture was so very different to what you might expect when visiting Europe, for example.
And, while the city has all the modern conveniences you could wish for as a traveller, they are presented in such a way that is completely in-keeping and authentic to Morocco’s cultural history.
Much of the Moroccan people’s traditional ways of living remain intact, and there is a real sense of a love and safeguarding of those traditions and values. With the country as a whole being a mix of Berber and Arab ethnicities, alongside Islam having a strong influence across the country, you immediately notice that people here are eager to preserve the reputation of their country, while at the same time proudly willing to showcase it to you.
Until next time,
Lica xoxo