South Senegal Adventure
While visiting neighbouring The Gambia, we felt it would have been a lost opportunity not to pay Senegal a visit as part of our West African exploration. While most people cross into the country to the north from The Gambia in a bid to get a safari experience, we wanted to explore the south, via the Casamance region.
Border Crossing
Nothing beats a good land border crossing, and this one was no exception. We had our passports taken into the office building by our guide while we waited outside, before walking through no man’s land and having our passports checked again on the other side.
Our driver sorted out the car, as this border crossing is used daily for all kinds of trade and transportation and therefore had to be processed separately.
The wait at the border was also a good opportunity to exchange our dalasi for West African CFA francs. We found a guy holding massive wads of cash – for example, 5,000 West African francs is roughly 5 dalasi, or about 5p! While we didn’t have the time or opportunity for souvenir shopping, as there were no touristy areas on our day trip, it was useful when it came to tipping our boat driver, for example.
North Vs South
The south of Senegal, separated by the River Gambia, was explained to us as being more traditional, more lush, and more focused on farming and growing crops compared to the north.
The landscape noticeably changed as we drove further into Senegal, with gorgeous tall kapok trees towering overhead. It was also noticeable how fertile the land was, with far more greenery and a distinctly tropical feel. The northern regions are drier by comparison, with a more arid climate.
Delays And Dodgy Roads
Perhaps the only hiccup in our day was being pulled over by roadside police who ‘inspected’ our car – something that is apparently typical when they see a foreign number plate. After around 30 minutes of negotiations (checking documents, which were all fine, and examining our vehicle and its contents), some money was exchanged to keep the police party sweet, and we were on our way.
It also has to be said that the roads in south Senegal are not the best. Prepare for uneven surfaces, massive potholes and navigating around trucks. It has an off-roading kind of feel, and we often had to use both sides of the road (thankfully traffic was light) in order to avoid getting stuck.
Kafountine Fish Market
It is impossible to express the energy and atmosphere that being among the mass of people and boats at the fish market brings. It was an all-encompassing attack on the senses. A blur of brightly painted pirogues stretched as far as the eye could see, both on land and in the water.
Armies of fishermen hauled nets and pulled in catches – some in matching uniforms from larger companies, others working independently.
Kafountine is the biggest fishing centre in south Senegal, and it feels as though the entire town is purpose-built for the fishing industry. We visited the beach, which was overtaken by a hive of activity. Every day, fishermen return from the Atlantic hauling in everything from sardines to barracuda, ready to be sorted, cleaned and sold.
But it’s not just about selling fish – this is a well-oiled operation. While some bring the catch in, others are already heading back out, loading up with ice, nets and supplies for another long night at sea.
The next step in the process involves cleaning and sorting, which appeared to be mostly done by women. The sheer speed and skill of these workers was incredible – every movement precise, and nothing wasted. The beach was littered with fish scales and piled high with different kinds of fish.
This region is also famous for its traditional fish-smoking techniques and dry-salted fish, preserving fish for trade across West Africa. We visited another part of the town where fish were laid out to dry in the balmy sunshine.
This isn’t just a market – it’s a way of life. Generations of families have worked here, keeping alive traditions that have sustained communities for centuries. The sights, the sounds, the smells… Kafountine is truly the heartbeat of Casamance and offers a fascinating insight into the fishing industry here. If you ever get the chance, you have to experience this in person.
Boat Journey Through Mangrove Forests In Authentic Pirogues
They say it’s just as much about the journey as it is the destination, and this couldn’t have been more true. Our driver stopped at the side of a riverbank – first we had to find the correct spot, as the tide was low and the boats were parked elsewhere – and we removed our shoes and waded out to our very own pirogues.
Pirogues are traditional wooden boats used for fishing, transportation and ceremonies. They are often long and narrow, painted in bright colours and patterns. Beyond their practical use, they are cultural symbols, highlighting the work of skilled craftsmen and representing community identity. Traditionally made from a single tree trunk and carved by hand, their decorations are ornate and deeply symbolic.
Once aboard, our captain took us on a long, leisurely journey through meandering mangrove forests where, bar the odd fishing boat, the only other life on the water was a plethora of colourful birds – kingfishers, herons and vultures galore. We travelled for over an hour, taking countless twists and turns that only someone with intimate knowledge of the waterways could navigate.
Our boat slowed as we approached an island with golden sandy banks. The next part of our adventure began…
Kailo Island
It’s not very often you get to experience a day in the life on a remote Senegalese tribal island. This community practises animist beliefs, unlike the rest of the country, which is predominantly Muslim. They are entirely self-governed and do not welcome government or police intervention – something we were told has been attempted unsuccessfully in the past. They do, however, welcome visitors, which was made very clear by the warmth with which we were embraced.
The community is almost entirely self-sufficient, growing food and other plants on their allotments that can be sold elsewhere in Senegal. They supplement this by having fish delivered to the island in ice boxes.
The children, in particular, were incredibly curious about us. One even took my hand straight away and showed us how they play – pouring sand into plastic bottles or kicking around a makeshift football made from rolled-up sellotape.
They were fascinated by our camera too, eager to take photos themselves. One of the village elders answered our questions about island life. We learnt that while some members of the small community (no more than a couple of dozen people live there) can leave to work elsewhere for a time, they must always return. I asked about hospitals and childbirth, and was told that women give birth on the island as they always have, without outside intervention.
We had someone interpreting for us, as the island speaks French alongside a native language. Despite any language barriers, kindness is always felt through body language. There was a serene stillness here.
The community showed us around their village: their central meeting space beneath a huge tree (complete with a goat that had climbed into it!), their water reserves – vital for avoiding shortages – a well, and the area where women prepare food, including palm nut soup.
We even sampled homemade palm wine, poured from a petrol can into a makeshift cup cut from a plastic bottle, as we encountered a group of men sitting in the shade and getting merry. It was surprisingly sweet and delicious – a bit like cider!
We ended our otherworldly visit with a musical performance by a musician named Benjamin, who has gained national recognition for his drumming. This was followed by another impromptu performance, and I was completely in awe. We listened to their singing and drumming while two small boys played on the floor.
As we left what felt like another world – where life is slow, there’s no electricity or internet, and people are warm and welcoming – we said our goodbyes, left gifts for the children, and headed back through the mangroves to the mainland.
Thank You Arch Tours
We booked our visit through Arch Tours, an independent company, and arranged our trip with the help of the owner, Mr Conteh. While the website itinerary didn’t exactly match what we experienced, I have absolutely no complaints – it was perfect.
A special shout-out to our brilliant guide Dawda and his trusty driver and right-hand man, Alfa. As it was a private tour, we were able to have meaningful one-to-one conversations and experiences with both of them. They were exceptionally professional, warm, and always happy to answer our questions. Dawda speaks multiple languages, which meant we could gain deeper insight when speaking to people we met along the way. Sharing a meal together at the end of the day was the perfect ending.
An Unforgettable Travel Day
Truly, this experience crossing into south Senegal, experiencing the otherworldly fish market and visiting the remote Kailo Island will forever remain one of my top five travel days. I felt thrust into an entirely new world and will never forget discovering the island or the little boys who accompanied us throughout the day.
Visiting a place so untouched by tourism – where we were the only tourists around – felt like discovering somewhere entirely new. It was refreshing, immersive, and allowed us to experience everyday life in a way that is becoming increasingly rare.
Until next time,
Lica xoxo
