Cotopaxi – One Of The Highest Active Volcanoes In The World
It’s impossible to drive around Quito without noticing the incredible surrounding landscape – rolling hills and mountains as far as the eyes can see! And sometimes, if we were very lucky with clear weather, we would catch a glimpse of the majestic snow-tipped Cotopaxi volcano. There was never a question that we would try to come as close to the stratovolcano as possible at some point in our stay.
As the second highest summit in Ecuador, Cotopaxi peaks at an impressive 5,897m and is arguably one of the greatest symbols of natural geography in the country. Its impressive stature dominates over the national park in its namesake – a protected area with a unique ecosystem dictated by the stark environment it inhabits.
It was fascinating/scary to learn that Cotopaxihas erupted 50 times since 1738, which makes it one of the most active volcanoes in the world. What is perhaps even more impressive is that there are a total 47 volcanoes in Ecuador, including Chalupas, a megavolcano.
The Importance Of Altitude Acclimatisation
While climbing to the summit takes many days of training and the help of professional guides, you can hike up to the refuge center (about a third of the way up) without any prior preparation. With that being said, it’s still very important to acknowledge the fact that even to reach the refuge, you will be hiking on rocky terrain, at a very high altitude and with very rapidly changing weather.
Respecting the environment you are entering is vital to ensure you have a successful hike – that means wearing boots with ankle support, wearing the appropriate clothing (layers!) and making sure you have taken the time to acclimatise to the altitude beforehand.
Adam and I were very thankful that we chose to do the climb after having spent nearly two weeks in Quito (at a humbling altitude of just 2850m) acclimatising to the thinner air and reduced amount of oxygen. When it came to ascending up to the refuge at 4864m, while challenging, we climbed up quicker and suffered less than those who were only in Quito for a day or two.
TOP TIP: Check the weather report before booking your Cotopaxi visit. A clear day means you are more likely to have the best possible views of Cotopaxi, both before the climb and once you reach the refuge.
Machachi Town
Machachi town is the perfect place to stop-off for an on-the-go breakfast. Empanadas and a hot chocolate topped with cinnamon is my personal recommendation!
Cotopaxi National Park
Cotopaxi National Park is located on the border of Pichincha province, just an hour and a half from Quito. The ecological reserve features a dramatic landscape of volcanic soil and rock, moorland and lagoons.
Something important to note is that the road up to the base of the volcano through the National Park was pretty uneven (that’s putting it mildly!) . Please do not try the drive in anything other than a four wheel drive, unless you have an expert driver with you who knows how to maneuver the roads!
TOP TIP: The weather in the National Park changes rapidly! Be sure to come prepared with layered clothing, solid waterproof boots, a rain jacket and hat/scarf/gloves.
Interpretation Center Mariscal Sucre
Interpretation Center Mariscal Sucre, also referred to as the Cotopaxi Park Museum, is used as a final rest stop before moving ahead to where you begin to hike up the volcano. Here you will find lots of information about the park, the wildlife and the geology/natural history of the area. You will learn a lot about volcanos – it’s incredible to think that Ecuador has the most volcanos in the world!
The souvenir shop is also a great place to purchase some alpaca-wool mittens or a hat if you forgot to bring them with you. We also made sure to purchase some coca tea from the cafe to ensure we were in the best form possible for our impending climb! Coca tea is used, among other reasons, to relieve the symptoms of altitude sickness.
TOP TIP: This is the best place to do a final bathroom visit before you begin hiking Cotopaxi. There are bathrooms at the refuge but they are not as comfortable to use! They’re fine but if you prefer the comfort of running water and soap, I’d recommend using these before the climb.
Refuge Jose Rivas
The Jose Rivas Refuge is a frequented spot in the National Park, welcoming many keen hikers and adventurous souls. The refuge has been around since the early 1970s and serves as a vital rest-stop for day-trippers to Cotopaxi and longer-term residents training to reach the summit. While it would undoubtedly be incredible to reach the summit, the refuge would be our final destination!
There are two routes to reach the refuge – one is affectionately named the ‘heart breaker’ as it was a steep uphill climb. It’s shorter than its alternative, but the tougher option. The other route is longer distance wise, but zig-zags upwards at a more gradual rate, so is considered to be ‘easier’. We opted for a slow ascent of the ‘heart breaker’ route and I think it took us about an hour to reach the refuge.
Along the way we saw people of all ages making their ascent. The camaraderie of hikers is something I love – people are always willing each other on, happy to have a chat and offering to take photos for you etc. We also saw what we presume to be someone who works at the refuge coming down Cotopaxi carrying empty oxygen tanks – a stark reminder of the fact that you are in an environment that is tough on the body!
Once we made it to the top we got our photo with the sign – it had to be done! The fact that we chose a clear day to visit Cotopaxi meant that we were also rewarded with the most incredible blue sky and panoramic views of the landscape below… It was breathtaking.
We also had to check out the cabins where you could rest as a day tripper, and which are used to house those training to reach the summit. They were bustling with activity with people of all ages from all over the world congregating in one space, drinking coca tea and exchanging stories. The walls were decorated with flags from all over the world that people signed as mementos of their travels. The wooden building is super cozy and a great place to keep warm from the wind.
TOP TIP: Don’t forget to get your Cotopaxi passport stamp up here – a cool memento of your achievement!
The Descent
Having spent an hour or so at the refuge center relaxing and refueling with sweets and more coca tea, we began a slow and leisurely descent down to the meeting spot at the base of the volcano.
I found the climb down more tricky than the upward journey as the terrain was a mixture of rock and sand which meant it was very easy to trip on the rocks or slip on the sand – which I did and landed on my butt!
Also the weather took a turn and suddenly we went from a gentle breeze and clear, sunny skies to overcast and windy conditions growing colder by the minute! It was amazing to watch the clouds begin to gather around the refuge where we just were!
Limpiopungo Lagoon
On the way back from the volcano we stopped off at Limpiopungo Lagoon, a large expanse of clear glacial water accumulated from Cotopaxi and surrounding mountains.
I’ve read that on a calm-weather day, the lagoon reflects its surroundings like a mirror – unfortunately it was very windy when we visited so that was not the case as you can see in my photographs!
Limpiopungo is an ideal stop to relax and take some time to appreciate the flora and fauna all around you – we saw deer and lots of birds nearby, so bring your binoculars! The wooden boardwalk approaching the water meant the lagoon was very easy to access too.
Organising The Trip
We chose to organise our trip to Cotopaxi with Quito Tour Bus, who we have enjoyed several trips with thus far. The groups are fairly small, the guides are knowledgeable and we always felt safe and well taken care of.
Final Thoughts On Climbing Cotopaxi
Adam and I felt a huge amount of personal achievement climbing Cotopaxi to the refuge center. Not only were the views from 4864m INSANE, but life felt so peaceful and serene up there, with no phone signal to speak of. It was just us climbers and the volcano.
To get so up-close to a volcano was a once-in-a-lifetime experience, particularly when you live in the UK. The terrain back home just doesn’t compare to the majesty of Cotopaxi!
I would recommend climbing Cotopaxi to anyone looking for a challenge while visiting Quito, or at the very least just exploring the National Park. Do your research, be sure to acclimatise and enjoy the climb!
Until next time,
Lica xoxo
