Experiencing Malaysia’s Colonial Past In Cameron Highlands

From walking the historic streets of the former trading hub Melaka, to enjoying island life on Pangkor, every stop in our Malaysian journey has taught us just a little bit more about this truly unique country.

Our brief spell in Kuala Lumpur not only brought modernity to our trip, but a sprinkle of little India, while stop-offs in cities such as Ipoh revealed the Chinese-Malay fusions that create such an interesting culinary and cultural dynamic.

But as our trip neared its end, there was still another side of Malaysia it turned out we had yet to explore. Enter Cameron Highlands: the land of tea, scones and strawberry jam.

Introducing Cameron Highlands

Cameron Highlands are the highest point of the Malay Peninsula, named after the British explorer Sir William Cameron, who first mapped the area in 1885.

While the altitude doesn’t quite hit the levels we experienced in South America, some of the highest peaks reach 1800m+ above sea level. The area is mainly famous for its farms, tea plantations and market towns that sit dotted alongside the Pahang hills.

During the era of colonisation the British retreated to the highlands to avoid the heat of the dry season. Many built farms and mansions that either still exist today or have been replaced with replica mimics. Thus now exists a whole host of real and mock-Tudor houses, hotels and eateries, many selling amongst other British classics strawberries and cream and afternoon tea.

Now a highly popular destination for both local and international tourists, the area is famed for its five-star resorts. There’s even a golf course located up within the hills which blows my mind! 

The History of Cameron Highlands

British colonisers quickly realised that the climate of Cameron Highlands was perfect for growing a large array of fresh foods and produce. Perhaps most famously, that most synonymous delicacy of British culture, tea!

The area thus grew to become the tea producing capital of Malaysia, with individuals including John Archibald Russel creating numerous plantations across the hills. Russell’s Boh Tea Plantation (built in 1929) is still around today, and the one we visited during our stay. More on that later!

But it wasn’t just tea that Cameron Highlands became famous for. The formation of the Agricultural Experiment Station in the 1920s led to a whole variety of fruits, vegetables and flowers being grown. The strawberries in particular became something of a regional icon.

More On Those Strawberries

It’s impossible to walk 5 minutes in the highlands without seeing some kind of reference to strawberries. From large plastic strawberries on the roadside, to nurseries offering ‘pick your own’ and markets selling homemade jams. Strawberries are everywhere!

Years of refined growing techniques and the temperate climate means the conditions to grow strawberries here are optimal. Time and again we heard that these are the best strawberries in all of Malaysia. But that may also have something to do with the fact that apparently it’s also the only place they are grown! 

Big Red Strawberry Farm

And this brings us to The Big Red Strawberry farm, a garden centre (come coffee shop) just a short walk away from our hotel in Brinchang.

Not only does The Big Red Strawberry farm let you walk around its plantations for free and pick your own, but it also has most likely the best strawberry themed restaurant anywhere in the world!

The menu was incredible – pretty much EVERYTHING was strawberry flavoured (aside from the very unique iced lettuce drink as the farm also grows a lot of lettuce). We had strawberry tea, strawberry hot chocolate and a strawberry pancake. Delicious and bizarre! 

Address: Brinchang, 39000 Brinchang, Pahang, Malaysia

Now Back To The Tea…

BOH Tea Plantation

From what I understand there are three tea plantations in Cameron Highlands which tourists can visit. BOH Tea Plantation was touted to be the best in terms of the views it offers and the food and drink served in the on-site cafe. 

We decided to give BOH a try without really knowing what to expect and were pleasantly surprised. Although the plantation appears to have closed its guided tours for the time being, we killed a good hour and a half walking up to the impressive view point, taking a stroll around some of the nearby fields and of course enjoying a nice cuppa in the cafe. 

The drive to the plantation was just as impressive as the plantation itself, with winding hillside roads offering breathtaking views of tiered emerald green tea fields as far as the eye can see. The soft smell of tea in the air is intoxicating for a tea lover like myself! 

We really benefited from hiring a taxi driver for two hours as he stopped off regularly along the way to let us get out and take photos. He then waited in the car park while we explored BOH and enjoyed our drinks. 

Hiring the taxi was less than £10 for two people. However, you can of course make your own way there if you have access to a scooter. 

Kea Farm Market

On the way back from BOH we asked our driver to drop us off at a market we had seen on the drive up to the plantation.

Open daily, Kea Farm Market is a great spot to visit if you want a better insight into the local produce grown in the area and to grab some fresh fruits and strawberries to snack on. 

Because the market is literally on the side of the road, the traffic in and around it can be chaotic (that’s putting it mildly!) so just be careful when crossing the road!

Address: 59, Brinchang, 39000 Tanah Rata, Pahang, Malaysia

Top tip: Keep an eye out for the ‘traditional British scones’ packs sold in tupperware boxes containing scones, jam and butter. It’s a must try! 

What Else To Do In Cameron Highlands 

Sam Poh Temple

Sam Poh is a Buddhist temple and the largest religious building in Cameron Highlands. It is within walking distance if you are staying in Brinchang. 

The route there is not particularly picturesque but the temple itself is interesting and free to explore if you have some time to kill. 

The colourful gate and walls nestled in the hillside is pretty unique and very peaceful. 

Address: Jalan Pecah Batu, Brinchang, 39000 Brinchang, Pahang, Malaysia

Cactus Point

Cameron Highlands is a plant lover’s paradise – we saw so many Malaysian families stocking up their cars with house and garden plants to drive back home from their visit. 

Among many other garden centres in the area, Cactus Point appears to be a firm favourite due to its focus on cacti, of which it has an impressive array! 

Unless you love to look at plants or are looking to purchase some, this visit can be a hit or miss! 

Address: 42, jalan, Brinchang, 39000 Brinchang, Pahang, Malaysia

Where We Stayed

We stayed in Brinchang, one of the 3 main towns connected by the main road. It was one of the many two star hotels located in the centre. Cheap and cheerful and nothing to write home about.

Tanah Rata is where the main bus station is and where we saw most other western tourists. However, we enjoyed our stay just outside of this area. It was cheaper and closer to most of the attractions. 

One of the weirdest finds during our stay was a recently built shopping complex designed in mock-tudor style. There were lots of modern restaurants, shops and playful British-themed decor such as a miniature London bus that takes kids on short rides. 

There are absolutely no shortages of places to eat here either, whether you’re looking for fast food or steamboat (a very popular dish in the area). 

The great thing about this part of Cameron Highlands is all the towns are approximately 15-20 minutes away from one another. Taxis are cheap and reliable.

Come To Cameron Highlands!

From the refreshing climate and strawberry-flavoured everything, to the bizarre British references throughout (cream tea in Malaysia anyone?!). Cameron Highlands is definitely one of those places you need to experience for yourself to determine whether it’s your cup of tea (pun intended!).

I found it equal parts beautiful – it’s so lush and green – and equal parts bizarre. Especially those elements that played deeply into British stereotypes from a colonial past. 

Coming from the UK it was a fun experience sampling various teas and strolling around garden centres like we do back at home. It was very different to everywhere else we explored in Malaysia and a place we’ll certainly never forget!

Until next time,

Lica xoxo

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