Darjeeling Express : homestyle Indian comfort food from a female-only team
Address: Kingly Court, Carnaby Street, London, W1B 5PW
Darjeeling Express : homestyle Indian comfort food from a female-only team
Some background…
You don’t have to know me very well to know that Indian cuisine means so much more to me than simply being a great takeaway option or something you might indulge in for a special occasion with friends and family at your favourite local restaurant. I was raised on the stuff.
My dad was anglo-Indian, born in Mumbai (or Bombay as it was known then) to an Anglo-Indian father and English mother. He moved to the UK during his teenage years and after spending some time in Dubai (where he met my mother) and Russia (where I was born), settled back in the UK.
He was an incredible cook who could make something from nothing and ensured that everyday my family and I came home to a proper home cooked meal. While our kitchen was small I distinctly remember the cupboards were always overflowing with spices and it’s where I found myself feeling most at home.
From the age of 6 I helped my dad prepare meals by bringing out various ingredients from the fridge/cupboards, help chop things up or wash up. And while we ate all manner of different dishes from all over the world, more often than not, Indian food would be on the menu.
It meant that when he passed away 10 years ago there became an added element of nostalgia and emotive power behind Indian cuisine. I still crave certain dishes he made which is why I am always so excited to try out a new Indian restaurant to see if they make their dishes in the same way as my dad did.
Which is where Darjeeing Express comes in…
Where it all began
If you haven’t been bingeing on Netflix’s Chef’s Table series WHERE HAVE YOU BEEN? I highly recommend you do so now! I first learnt about Darjeeling Express and it’s owner, Asma Khan, through her episode on the series and was so moved by her story that I’ve been on a mission to get myself booked in to her Carnaby Street restaurant ever since!
I could write an essay on Asma’s story, but I’ll leave it to Netflix should you want a more in-depth insight into how her restaurant came into fruition. I dare you not to fall in love with the way Asma’s cooking abilities developed over time, from hosting secret dinner parties and cooking for a dozen people in her home to opening up her own restaurant where home-cooked, traditional recipes are championed.
A home away from home
Darjeeling Express sits on the second floor of the lively Kingly Court in Carnaby Street. The courtyard is gorgeous and home to lots of eateries, so be sure to pay a visit when you’re next in the area.
The interior of Asma’s restaurant is rustic, simplistic and laid-back, with little framed photographs on the walls, warm lighting and various beverages stored underneath back wall seating, adding to the relaxed feel of the overall atmosphere.
These are my favourite types of restaurants- there’s no pomp or pageantry, just warm lighting and a cosy interior. I think the best eateries don’t try too hard to sell you how good they are, they spend their efforts on creating magic in the kitchen, which is certainly the case here!
The open kitchen in the corner of the restaurant has to be highlight too. I don’t know about you, but I love seeing an open kitchen. There’s something fascinating to me about seeing food being prepared in front of you and seeing the focus on the person’s face who is cooking up something delicious!
The food
It was refreshing to see such a concise menu with enough variation of meat, vegetarian and vegan dishes to keep any type of diner happy. You won’t find dishes that you might typically associate with an Indian takeaway here (sorry tikka masala fans!), so this is the perfect opportunity to try something new or unfamiliar.
I would always say it’s far more exciting to jump in and order with an open mind as you will more often than not be surprised in the best possible way with what is brought to your table!
What we ordered
- Drinks : Tamarind spritz and a Darjeeling Old Fashioned
- Starters : Tangra chilli garlic prawns and puchkas
- Mains : Goat kosha mangsho, kali mirch saag keema, Hyderabadi tamarind dal, Aloo, beetroot raita and puris
- Dessert : Gajjar ka halwa, bhapa doi, masala chai and Darjeeling chai
My highlights have to be the prawns, goat curry, keema and masala chai.
The prawns are so soft and flavoursome with the perfect amount of chilli to wake you up but not overpower your tastebuds. I could eat these like sweets all day, I swear!
The goat curry is utterly dreamy, with the meat melting in your mouth and the sauce being rich and perfect to sneakily mop up with puri bread (while your dining companion isn’t looking)!
The keema is spicy and has a gorgeous depth in flavour that permeates the light and almost ‘fluffy’ mince perfectly. I just ate this by the spoonful- no rice needed!
If you’ve never had masala chai before, then this might be the most perfect cup you could have! The chai is so smooth and sweet without being sickly and packs a robust punch with whatever mysterious mix of spices it’s infused with.
Girl Power
Something that you may not instantly notice is the fact that Darjeeling Express is run entirely by women. From being greeted by the door, to being seated, cooked for and served, the entire operation is handled by women. Asma herself is also often present and moves from table to table, talking to guests, serving dishes and being generally lovely.
You may also be surprised to learn that all the dishes prepared in the kitchen are done so by housewives who have not been ‘formally’ trained. The women who run the kitchen do so through passion and authenticity with their knowledge of traditional Indian food. I can completely appreciate the fact that Asma has chosen to hire seemingly ordinary (but far from it!) women who have cooked the same dishes their entire lives, with recipes being passed on though generations over someone who has been to culinary school, has a technical understanding of Indian cooking without the same ‘feel’ and natural talent for crafting the same dishes.
I once read that all of the spices in the kitchen are ground fresh each day and, a lot of the time, are added by sight rather than by measure. This to me is the sign of a true cook -being able to use instinct and natural talent with flavours to create a dish.
The fact that Asma has given women the opportunity to showcase their talents in the kitchen and receive the recognition they deserve for their skills at the Darjeeling Express is inspiring and should be more celebrated. I thought I’d shout about it on here too for this reason!
Booking
I booked a table 8 months in advance to get a table on a Saturday in January, so be prepared to wait patiently for your chance to eat here! From what I’ve read the restaurant does have the odd walk-in availability, but I wouldn’t bet on that.
I’ve just re-booked for a Saturday a year from now for that very reason!
Final thoughts
Darjeeling Express’ year-long table waiting list is testament to many aspects of the restaurant. From Asma’s incredible back story, to its entirely female led team and a menu that is both comforting and delicious.
I just love that we are now moving into a place where homestyle cooking is just as celebrated as fine dining. A shout-out to Asma for breaking through stereotypes and challenging the bias women face in the restaurant industry.
On a more personal note, the restaurant’s ability to conjure up feelings of nostalgia through home-cooked style dishes that took me back to when my dad used to cook for me and my family when I was a child, made it an all the more memorable experience. I was so thrilled to be able to thank Asma after our meal and promise to keep practicing and perfecting my biryani as she instructed!
Until next time,
Lica xoxo
