What I Loved About Lima, Peru’s Capital City

“Surely, of all the wonders of the world, the horizon is the greatest.” 

– Freya Stark

As our plane descended through the clouds on approach into Lima, Peru’s capital, we saw the fifth largest city in South America emerge outside our window. Having been inland for over a month in Colombia and Ecuador, it was also refreshing to finally catch a glimpse of the Pacific ocean too! 

The sky seemed unusually tinted in a dull, whitish-grey which painted our first impressions of the place as ‘moody’. Little did we know that this grey-wash tone to Lima’s skyline was not a one-off occurrence, with the city often being affectionately referred to as ‘Lima The Grey’ during certain months of the year.

Nicknames aside, Lima is in fact a pretty colourful and dynamic city! 

Its street art married with colonial-style architecture adds character and a unique sense of identity. We also thoroughly enjoyed experiencing the modernity of the place – on several occasions we likened it to being back in London. 

And its culinary scene is unmatched. The second best restaurant in the world, Central, can even be found in the capital. Let’s just say we ate WELL here!

Here are all the things I loved about Lima…

Did you know that Lima is the only South American capital that faces the sea?

The Food Scene

When I think back to my time in Lima, my mouth instantly begins to salivate and my tummy automatically starts to rumble! If you are a foodie, Lima has to be on your travel bucket list. 

Here are some of our restaurant recommendations…

KION Peruvian Chinese

An affordable Peruvian-Chinese fusion option in the trendy Miraflores area of Lima. The portions are generous and the food very flavourful. It’s the perfect spot if you are particularly ravenous and in need of some comfort food! 

Address: Av. Vasco Núñez de Balboa 737, Miraflores 15074, Peru

ChocoMuseo

We came across ChocoMuseo when looking for a cafe to kill some time while waiting for our laundry to get done! As it turns out, this chocolate themed cafe/workshop offered some delicious drinks and cakes. The hot chocolate I ordered was super thick and you could have it with or without hot milk – super rich and delicious. And Adam’s chocolate-flavoured tea was a real taste sensation. You can also pop in and get some free chocolate samples! 

Address: Diagonal 400 Entrada, Pje. San Ramón, Miraflores 15074, Peru

Pasteleria San Antonio

We walked past this unassuming pastry shop for days before finally having to see what all the fuss was about. This place was always packed with people – and it’s a pretty big space! It turns out to be a pretty prominent pastry/sandwich shop dating back to the 1950s. 

We found that alongside having a seated restaurant San Antonio’s also has a deli-style counter shopping area where you can purchase various sweet and savoury treats, as well as ice-cream. It’s an affordable and no-frills dining option. 

Address: Av. Vasco Núñez de Balboa 770, Miraflores 15074, Peru

Repshop

Eating out everyday can get a bit much sometimes when you are travelling for extended periods of time, both on the body and the wallet! 

Repshop, while it may look like a simple petrol station convenience store, actually has some great and very cheap snacking options for those looking for something small and delicious to eat. Their chicken rolls are particularly good and come complete with little sachets of french-fry crisps… chefs kiss!  

Address: VXCG+4J4, Av. 28 de Julio, Miraflores 15074, Peru

La Plazita

This is some of the best food we had during our travels through South America. Here we treated ourselves to Pisco Sours, fresh ceviche and dreamy pasta. 

It’s not cheap when compared to the rest of the food we tried in Peru or wider South America, but a three course meal here (with drinks!) is still a heck of a lot cheaper than anywhere you would go in London. 

Address: San Fernando 380, Miraflores 15074, Peru

Buena Vista Cafe 

Fast food and delicious drinks with a spectacular seaside view. Need I say more?

Address: Mal. de la Marina 316, Miraflores 15074, Peru

Isolina

This is another eatery that piqued our curiosity, having walked past it a couple of times and always seeing a queue of people lined up outside before it opened its doors.

Isolina offers large portions of traditional meals served in a laid-back fashion in unfussy settings. We ordered the Arroz Topada – a very unique combination of meat stew in between two layers of rice, containing raisins and olives and then topped off with a fried egg and plantain. 

It’s the perfect place to come and try some local dishes and share them with friends. 

Address: Av. San Martín 101, Barranco 15063, Peru

Mercado 28

An indoor street-food style market with a bar and multiple stalls selling global cuisine. This spot is super trendy and clearly popular with the locals who all hang out together in groups after work. 

Address: Av. Vasco Núñez de Balboa 755, Miraflores 15074, Peru

Did you know that a third of the entire population of Peru resides in Lima?

Chinese-Peruvian Identity

On the short car ride from the airport to our hotel, we were immediately cognisant of the fact that there was a prominent Chinese influence in the area. We drove by dozens of Chinese shops and eateries and were curious as to how this came to be. 

Interestingly enough, the links between Peru and China dates back to the mid 1800s when China first sent labourers into the country to work in the sugar and cotton industry. Peru was also one of the first countries in South America to secure diplomatic relations with China and even signed a free trade agreement, ensuring that China became a main trading partner and biggest investor in Peru. 

It’s fascinating to know that there has been such a unique marriage of culture between the Peruvian and Chinese people. From my understanding there is a lot of pride among descendants of the Chinese immigrant community in Peru. The influence of Chinese traditions, culture and cuisine are very prominent in Lima, and Peru as a whole.

Indian Artisan Market

The Indian market in Lima is an outdoor space dedicated to vendors selling all kinds of handicrafts and souvenirs, from jewelry and clothing, right the way through to fringe magnets and soft toys.

A caveat: if you are starting your journey through Peru in Lima, rest assured that souvenirs are plentiful throughout the country. You won’t need to buy everything here! 

Address: Av. Petit Thouars 5321, Miraflores 15074, Peru

Kennedy ‘Cat’ Park

Kennedy Park located in the district of Miraflores, is a city park named in honour of President John F. Kennedy. This would be interesting in itself, but bizarrely the park is also famous for being home to over 100 stray cats! 

It is unclear as to how all the cats got here over 20 years ago now, but rumour has it that priests from neighbouring churches left them there to control a plague? It’s also not entirely clear as to whether the locals are a fan of the cats being there, and apparently there are problems with cats being left in the park by their owners, which is very sad. 

But one thing is clear – visitors to Lima and cat-enthusiasts tourists love it! It’s nice to know that the cats are well looked after, too. There is a volunteer group who feed them and they get regular veterinary care (such as neutering, spaying and administering vaccines etc.). 

Alongside the many cats, the park is generally a cool place to explore. We particularly enjoyed seeing local artists showcasing their work in the park. The pieces were incredible and each artist had a unique style of creating their work. 

Address: Diagonal, Miraflores 15074, Peru

Modern Miraflores 

Most travellers seem to gravitate towards Miraflores when staying in Lima as it has a reputation for being very safe, trendy and beautiful. This district can be found right on the coastline in Lima and is home to lots of hotels and tourist attractions – cafes, bars and restaurants etc. What was once a fishing hotspot is now a popular neighborhood for wealthy Peruvians and expats. 

Miraflores is your go-to if you want to stay somewhere within easy reach of a sea view, shopping and dining opportunities. You are also always a short uber ride away from the rest of the city too.

We stayed in Miraflores at El Tambo 1, a compact hotel popular with couples or people on businesses trips, with a great breakfast included. We loved the location! 

Address: Av La Paz 1276 Miraflores, Miraflores, Lima, Peru

Bohemian Barranco

Barranco is Miraflores’ bohemian counterpart, also referred to as the ‘Soho of Lima’. Barranco is easy to wander through from Miraflores and is the best place to see some incredible, large-scale street art. Alongside the murals, the architecture here is gorgeous – you can walk through streets lined with characterful old mansions and museums. 

Head to the famous ‘Puente De Los Suspiros’ or the ‘Bridge Of Sighs’ landmark in Barranco to begin exploring the area. And, when you’re done taking photos, be sure to check out some of the many cafes and restaurants Barranco has to offer. 

The Beaches

As I’ve mentioned before, it was refreshing to visit Lima having spent so much time away from the coast. The skyline is pretty dramatic as you approach by airplane – highrise buildings perched on the cliffside overlooking the beaches below. And there are long expanses of coastline, most of which were empty, bar the occasional groups of surfers enjoying the endless flows of waves. 

I wouldn’t necessarily recommend Lima as a beach-holiday destination, but the connected sea front walkways and elaborate bridges which cross over the roadways are well worth a stroll at any time of day.

Shopping in Lacomar

Located overlooking the ocean in the centre of the Miraflores district, Lacomar is a modern shopping centre and popular place to dine out with locals and tourists alike. 

From fast food options and dessert vendors to high-end boutiques and clothing stores such as H&M, Lacomar offers a convenient shopping and foody spot. It’s open until 10pm and has a beautiful view of the sea and coastline, particularly at night. 

Address: Mal. de la Reserva 610, Miraflores 15074, Peru

Plaza De Armas Historic Centre

Plaza De Armas is the main square of Lima and is also considered to be the city’s birthplace, in 1535. Around the square you will find the Bishop’s House, the City Hall, Lima’s Cathedral and Governor’s Palace. The architecture is beautiful and vastly different to the modern structures you see in the rest of the city. 

We found the main square to be quite the trek from Miraflores – a lengthy uber ride away. The place itself, for me, was a little underwhelming. Although this may have been due to ongoing protests and roadworks meaning much of the area was closed off, or difficult to navigate. 

If you’re heading further south into Peru, I’d give this a miss as cities such as Arequipa and Cusco have much more beautiful historic districts.

Address: Plaza central Lima, Lima 15001, Peru

Wildlife

We were surprised to find that while Lima is a big city, there is still a fair amount of wildlife to spot here. Firstly the birds here are plentiful and so colourful. I can only assume this is because of the amount of plant life and foliage there is dotted throughout the place. 

Also if you look closely at the trees around Miraflores you will find little feeding pots attached to them. These are for the very friendly, inquisitive and LARGE Guayaquil squirrels who live here. 

The Dogs

I am not exaggerating when I say that it seems like every single person who lives in Lima owns a dog. There are dogs in all the parks and green spaces and lots of dog walkers shepherding pups of all shapes and sizes while their owners are at work. If you are a dog lover then you will adore seeing all the pampered pooches roaming the city. 

A Round Up Of Lima

Lima was our first impression of Peru as a country. As it turns out, however, judging the entirety of Peru by Lima would be incredibly limiting and paint a vastly inaccurate picture of such a diverse country. 

Having travelled the length of Peru (more content is coming soon), I can tell you that Lima is nothing like the rest of Peru. The capital is super modern, built up and cosmopolitan. It is much more expensive and pretty polluted. Compare that to the smaller towns and cities further south of Peru and the picture couldn’t be more different. 

I think Lima is a great starting point, to ease you into what the rest of the country has to offer. Here you can stock up on essentials and enjoy the modernity of trendy hotels, fast internet and western food favourites before getting stuck into what I would consider the more authentic and traditional parts of Peru.  

Until next time,  

Lica xoxo